From the first plunk of a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano onto a side plate (and on another plate bruschetta, and on another fried zucchini), to a complimentary limoncello with the check, brothers Gino and Fernando Masci march out a succession of solidly, sometimes stunningly satisfying traditional Italian fare.
The siblings come to Miami by way of their hometown of Abruzzi, Italy, with a 26-year stopover as owners of Greenwich Village’s renowned Il Mulino. They, along with Luigi Tullio, have re-created the magic here in the east tower of downtown’s One Miami building. Don’t bypass the pasta dishes, whose fresh, chewy noodles are churned out by a seasoned New York pasta chef and sautéed in the dining room by the Masci brothers.
Porcini ravioli bathed in champagne sauce is effectively flecked with black truffle, black pepper, and Parmesan cheese, while even a simple pappardelle with tomatoes, basil, and olive oil inspires awe for the way its few ingredients harmonize while retaining their distinct notes. By-the-book veal saltimboca, osso buco, salt-crusted branzino, and other classics make Il Gabbiano one of Miami’s top spots for quality, authentic Italian fare. It also offers a vista of Biscayne Bay, an extensive wine list, and solid service. Starters run from $15 to $22, pastas $20 to $26, risotti at $36.75, entrées $25.75 to $58. Specials cost more.